Movable Tables

Besides a fixed table, like my workbench, a small work area needs some movable tables. I recommend at least 2 in addition to any dedicated tables for heavy equipment. I have been pleased with my Black and Decker Workmate 425 tables over the years. More pleased with the old version.



The Workmate bench on the right in the top photo, with a cardboard cover on it, is about 15 years old. It is the better of the two as the metal frame is heavier then a more recent Workmate 425. Even more importantly, the top of the older table is 7/8" composite material that mates to a flat surface when closed. It was made in Canada. The newer version, made in China, has a plywood top that is only 5/8" thick and does not close to a flat surface. If you are familiar with the 425 Workmate the top is made of 3 sections and can be opened with the large orange turn handles on the front. On the right I show the new Workmate 425 top from the side, where one can see the mismatch, and then the old Workmate 425 top. As you can see the old one has lots of use marks but still mates nicely to a flat surface.



This allows for some clamping capability as well as using the surface with just 2 of the 3 sections in place. When I discuss cutting glass I'll come back to this not flat defect as it limits my use of this table. The older version, made in Canada, has not been available for many years. If you ever see one at a garage sale buy it!

I find it interesting that Black and Decker didn't compensate for the thinner top, perhaps their quality control never noticed! If I try to use both tables, to form a long work area, the newer one is 1/4" lower DUH.

The final table type I'll discuss is those needed for heavy pieces of equipment. This will be the topic of my next post. Until then keep trying to pack 10 lbs into a 5 lb sack!

The Workbench

The first item a workshop needs is a proper workbench. I constructed mine in early 1999. The frame, lower tray and the drawers are Douglas fir while the top is red oak. I used a combination of designs to fit my space needs.

So the features of importance for this post thread are: it was custom made to just fit the width I had, I added draws and a shelf area not in most workbench plans to maximize my storage.

The top design is based on a one sold by PlansNow with the title "European-Style Workbench". The top size was custom for my area. The frame, drawers and tray were a combination of ideas from multiple plans I looked at sized to my available space.

The frame is made with a "knock down" approach. No glue is used. The drawer runners and lower tray shelf are screwed to the frame members. Thus they can be removed with a little effort. The frame itself is held together by bolts that fit into recesses in the beautiful Douglas fir. I've never taken it apart but some day one of my sons or grandsons will when they inherit it.

The top is made in two layers. The base is made from 2 layers of 3/4" birch plywood glued and screwed together. The top layer is 1" by 2" red oak strips that go the full length of the top. The oak strips are attached to the plywood base using a construction Adhesive called PL 200. This adhesive allows for expansion and contraction of the top to avoid warping. Finally a 1" by 3" oak trim is placed around the perimeter flush with the top of the oak. This trim is held in place by screws that only go into the plywood base. The top sits on the frame held by it's weight, about 100 lbs. Each frame leg has a steel pin sticking up that mates with a hole in the bottom plywood base so the top cannot shift. Two people are needed to lift the top off the frame.

The top is protected by coats of Behr brand Scandinavian Tung Oil (#600 natural clear). I usually add a coat once a year when I know I'll not be using the bench for a week or so.

After 11 years of use I recently refinished the top for the first time. Most of the effort was in removing perhaps 10 coats of Tung Oil and then doing a little sanding of the rad oak to get to a clean looking surface.

How to maximize your shop space

This is the initial topic I'd like to discuss. My studio started as a medium sized one car garage: 11 foot wide, 11 foot high and 21 foot deep area. There is a 3 foot by 7 foot space in a back corner taken up by 3 steps and a landing into our home's living space.

So the space is rather small for construction of a queen sized walnut bed, a 5 foot long oak sideboards or a framed 18 sq ft stained glass panel to give some examples of larger projects I've made.

I have a feeling that others might be interested in some of the approaches I've used over the last 12 years to maximize my usable space. Others might be able to supply their own space saving tips will allow me to get more then 10 lbs in my 5 lb sack - as the old saying goes.

I'll tackle specific items in posts to follow. For now here is a photo of my studio, from the garage door, as it looks today shows my starting point.