Tables and Tools Part I - Radial Arm Saw

When cutting materials; wood, glass, picture mat cardboard, or whatever the two main things that lead to a bad cut are: you measured wrong or something slipped during the cutting process. The old carpenter's run of measure twice and cut once usually works. But I'll admit that even then I sometimes make mistakes. However, slipping during cutting can be greatly reduced if your cutting system is securely attached to a table or stand. Firm attachment is also the safe way to use any electric high speed cutting system. While I'm mentioning safety, good quality safety glasses are also a must when using a high speed cutting device. I'm sure we all know that but the use of safety glasses cannot be stressed enough.

I mount all my larger tools onto plywood bases so that they can be firmly attached to a table top with clamps or bolts. The first tool shown is a 10" radial arm saw mounted on a 1" plywood base (1/2" ply was the scrap I had at the time). The base size was set for easy clamping to my Black & Decker Workmate 425 tables as shown in the photo. There is a second clamp in use hidden behind the saw. Two large clamps are sufficient. In this setup the clamps are at the back side. Front mounted clamps would actually be a hazard as they could get in the way of easy hand motion while using the saw.

A firm tool base allows for easier movement of the tool and placing the tool back to where it is stored. In my attempt to maximize space each tool has an assigned storage space, usually on the top of an old bookcase or cabinet to help save my back when moving it. Here the radial saw storage space is the top of an old TV stand. The front doors are long gone and the interior space is divided by a shelf into two areas to yield lots of storage and the saw at almost the height of the Workmate tables.


For sheet glass cutting there are two additional potential problems that can lead to bad cuts. First, the surface needs to be flat. This is the issue for the newer Work Mate 425 table which makes it of little use for glass cutting. As shown in my post of July 23rd the three table sections don't mate to a flat top. The flat surface should be covered with a firm material that has just a little give. Some use carpet covers but I find carpet holds too many little slivers of glass that sometime "bite". So I use picture mat cardboard. I cut the sheets to the size of the Workmate table top. At the art supply stores I usually ask if they have any damaged sheets, at a reduced price.

The second glass cutting problem is small pieces of glass, from prior cuts, getting onto the surface. These small pieces can serve as pressure points on the glass sheet resulting in poor cracks while scoring the glass. The general rule is to sweep or vacuum the surface after each cut. A white mat is easier to sweep clean and colored glass chips are more easily seen.

Tables for Larger Equipment

A few years ago I replaced a smaller Sears Craftsman drill press with Delta Model DP300L press. The main reason I selected this model was it was the smallest one that would accept a mortising attachment. After getting it I realizing it needed a dedicated table since, at 78 lbs, it was too heavy to lift onto one of the Workmate tables from the floor.

To continue the theme of maximizing space my table design has two storage shelves below. They add about 8 sq ft of storage space to my workshop. They hold most of my drill bits and the mortising attachment pieces. On something this heavy it is important to use large wheels and at least some should be locking. I installed four locking 4" diameter swivel wheels.


The construction is similar to my work bench frame the legs made from doubled two by fours. The leg wood is leftover Douglas fir. The shelves are made from whatever leftover plywood I had on hand and the shelf caps oak cutoff strips. The only items that I needed to purchase were the locking swivel wheels.

Movable Tables

Besides a fixed table, like my workbench, a small work area needs some movable tables. I recommend at least 2 in addition to any dedicated tables for heavy equipment. I have been pleased with my Black and Decker Workmate 425 tables over the years. More pleased with the old version.



The Workmate bench on the right in the top photo, with a cardboard cover on it, is about 15 years old. It is the better of the two as the metal frame is heavier then a more recent Workmate 425. Even more importantly, the top of the older table is 7/8" composite material that mates to a flat surface when closed. It was made in Canada. The newer version, made in China, has a plywood top that is only 5/8" thick and does not close to a flat surface. If you are familiar with the 425 Workmate the top is made of 3 sections and can be opened with the large orange turn handles on the front. On the right I show the new Workmate 425 top from the side, where one can see the mismatch, and then the old Workmate 425 top. As you can see the old one has lots of use marks but still mates nicely to a flat surface.



This allows for some clamping capability as well as using the surface with just 2 of the 3 sections in place. When I discuss cutting glass I'll come back to this not flat defect as it limits my use of this table. The older version, made in Canada, has not been available for many years. If you ever see one at a garage sale buy it!

I find it interesting that Black and Decker didn't compensate for the thinner top, perhaps their quality control never noticed! If I try to use both tables, to form a long work area, the newer one is 1/4" lower DUH.

The final table type I'll discuss is those needed for heavy pieces of equipment. This will be the topic of my next post. Until then keep trying to pack 10 lbs into a 5 lb sack!

The Workbench

The first item a workshop needs is a proper workbench. I constructed mine in early 1999. The frame, lower tray and the drawers are Douglas fir while the top is red oak. I used a combination of designs to fit my space needs.

So the features of importance for this post thread are: it was custom made to just fit the width I had, I added draws and a shelf area not in most workbench plans to maximize my storage.

The top design is based on a one sold by PlansNow with the title "European-Style Workbench". The top size was custom for my area. The frame, drawers and tray were a combination of ideas from multiple plans I looked at sized to my available space.

The frame is made with a "knock down" approach. No glue is used. The drawer runners and lower tray shelf are screwed to the frame members. Thus they can be removed with a little effort. The frame itself is held together by bolts that fit into recesses in the beautiful Douglas fir. I've never taken it apart but some day one of my sons or grandsons will when they inherit it.

The top is made in two layers. The base is made from 2 layers of 3/4" birch plywood glued and screwed together. The top layer is 1" by 2" red oak strips that go the full length of the top. The oak strips are attached to the plywood base using a construction Adhesive called PL 200. This adhesive allows for expansion and contraction of the top to avoid warping. Finally a 1" by 3" oak trim is placed around the perimeter flush with the top of the oak. This trim is held in place by screws that only go into the plywood base. The top sits on the frame held by it's weight, about 100 lbs. Each frame leg has a steel pin sticking up that mates with a hole in the bottom plywood base so the top cannot shift. Two people are needed to lift the top off the frame.

The top is protected by coats of Behr brand Scandinavian Tung Oil (#600 natural clear). I usually add a coat once a year when I know I'll not be using the bench for a week or so.

After 11 years of use I recently refinished the top for the first time. Most of the effort was in removing perhaps 10 coats of Tung Oil and then doing a little sanding of the rad oak to get to a clean looking surface.

How to maximize your shop space

This is the initial topic I'd like to discuss. My studio started as a medium sized one car garage: 11 foot wide, 11 foot high and 21 foot deep area. There is a 3 foot by 7 foot space in a back corner taken up by 3 steps and a landing into our home's living space.

So the space is rather small for construction of a queen sized walnut bed, a 5 foot long oak sideboards or a framed 18 sq ft stained glass panel to give some examples of larger projects I've made.

I have a feeling that others might be interested in some of the approaches I've used over the last 12 years to maximize my usable space. Others might be able to supply their own space saving tips will allow me to get more then 10 lbs in my 5 lb sack - as the old saying goes.

I'll tackle specific items in posts to follow. For now here is a photo of my studio, from the garage door, as it looks today shows my starting point.